Top 20 Mountain Passes in John Muir Wilderness

Trail Crest is a major junction at 13,600 feet where the High Sierra Trail meets the Mt. Whitney Trail on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada. It marks the highest pass on the route before summiting Mount Whitney (14,505 feet) or descending toward Whitney Portal (8,360 feet). Located about 2 miles from the Whitney summit and 8.5 miles from Whitney Portal, Trail Crest is the point where High Sierra Trail hikers must decide whether to continue to the summit or begin their long descent to Whitney Portal. Many hikers stash their heavy packs here before the final push to the top, but this comes with risks from marmots, and, unfortunately, thieves. From Trail Crest, the path to Whitney follows a rocky ridge with breathtaking views of both the western and eastern Sierra before reaching the summit. The descent from Trail Crest is long and steep, with countless switchbacks dropping into the Whitney Zone before reaching Whitney Portal, the official end of the High Sierra Trail.

Lamarck Col! Lamarck Col can be ascended from the east by traversing the glacier beneath, or from the west via a cross country scramble through Darwin Canyon. Please ensure that you carry proper snow gear (crampons/ice axe) if you plan on traveling over this pass! Safety first! Mount Lamarck was officially named in 1911 after French naturalist Jean-Baptist Lamarck, who was an early proponent of biological evolution. The peak sits at 4,090m, and is one of eight peaks forming the Evolution Crest of the Sierra Nevada. The first six peaks were named in 1895 after Darwin and prominent supporters of his theory of evolution. In 1911, two more peaks were added to the group: Lamarck and Mendel. A small glacier is sustained under the northern cliffs of the cirque, and precipitation on the west side of the mountain drains into Evolution Creek- a tributary of the San Joaquin River.

Kearsarge Pass is the most popular location to get off the Pacific Crest Trail to get supplies in the nearby town of Lonepine or Bishop. You have to hike down several thousand feet to get to Onion Valley and try to get a ride down to the desert floor. In 2023, the road up to Onion Valley might still be closed due to the record snow year.

You have to conquer this pass if you want your resupply in the city. But don't worry, it's less strenuous the second time! :D

At the high point of the barren Shepherd Pass the trail crosses the eastern ridge of the Sierra Nevada, but there are a few more ... From here the trail either descends to the Eastern Sierra valley, or follows a stream to the West.

Silver Pass (10,781 feet) is the one of eight major passes you have to cross hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. Although most of the other passes are named after a person, this is not the case for this one. The history goes more like this: Theodore S. Solomons, also called the “father” of the John Muir Trail by some, named a nearby creek Silver Creek in 1892, because he thought its rushing water had a silvery look. He also named a summit Silver Peak presumably due to its proximity to the creek. In 1912 the first Mount Goddard map showed the Silver Divide as well as the Silver Pass, named by the USGS. Hiking northbound, you can see Lake of the Lone Indian, Papoose Lake, Chief Lake, Warrior Lake and Squaw Lake before you hike up to Silver Pass.

Only about 4.6 miles distance from the trailhead parking at Onion Valley Road, Kearsage Pass is a popular resupply detour for long distance hikers on the John-Muir or Pacific Crest Trails. But it is also just a fantastic short day hike to gain a sweeping vista into the Kings Canyon National Park, passing 5 beautiful mountain lakes along the way.

After reaching the top of Shepherd Pass the Sierra High Route continues to the West in elevations between 10,000 and 13,000 ft (3,300 to 4,000 m). The confluence of Milestone creek with Kern river is a good place to camp in winter as it is one of only a couple places with running river water access, saving fuel and time. Crossing the river is usually good here on snow-bridges into May. June-July the snowmelt makes crossing more difficult. Day ❶ https://www.komoot.com/tour/18509726 Day ❷ https://www.komoot.com/tour/18551020