Cala Mariolu Trail

The first part, on the long stone paths, is a bit tough, but you can also shorten it by car and start the tour further back (approx. 3 km). The second part is largely over gravel paths. I found it very helpful to use GPS tracking on Komoot to find my way. The various paths are sometimes difficult to find in the scree. But this only applies to one small section. From the rocky outcrop, there are beautiful views of the sea and Cala Mariolu Bay here and there, while after several short wooden steps, you hike downhill through the forest towards the sea. Once you reach the very bottom, you have to climb down a small wooden ladder to reach the last 5 meters to the beach (therefore not suitable for dogs that can't be carried in a backpack or with one hand). The beach is beautiful - it's worth bringing your swimsuit. Be sure to pack plenty of water, as there are no water refills along the trail.

We wanted to go to Cala Goloritze that day, but that wasn't possible because you need a ticket and only a maximum of 150 people are allowed in. That was our alternative route, and you can also get to Cala Gloritze using this route if the conditions are good. As a tip, you can take a tent with you and set up camp in the bay in the evening and spend the night. From 5 p.m. onwards, the boats take thousands of people with them and you're there alone.

Challenging walk in August. There are passages on safe wooden stairs

On the way back, an involuntary pause in the recording created a straight section on the track, but in general the outward and return journeys were almost the same.

Today the hiking day begins again directly at our base camp, the Rifugio Goloritze on the plateau. First we take a short detour to the pilgrimage church Chiesa di San Pietro al Golgo, built in 1600, which is surrounded by centuries-old, gnarled olive trees. As a welcoming committee, we are welcomed by the next gang of donkeys, albeit in a stormy manner, as they are very interested in my hiking provisions. Note: Never eat an apple near Sardinian donkeys... ;-) This time there is even a donkey foal among them, and at the sight of the cute, fluffy baby I am so ecstatic that I can hardly stop myself. We hike along wide gravel paths - on the left and right of the path there are bushes with myrtle plants everywhere, from which the delicious liqueur that is so typical of Sardinia is made. We soon switch to the narrower and gently ascending hiking path that leads to Cala Mariolu. There is a scent of Mediterranean herbs everywhere, and we enjoy beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and the karst rocks of the plateau. A few cattle cross our path, but we don't meet any people. Little by little the path becomes more challenging, rocky and steep, and we have to concentrate well and pay attention to the cairn markings so as not to lose sight of the path. Every now and then we catch views of the deep blue of the Gulf of Orosei before we soon reach an old, traditional settlement of the Nuragic culture. These hut-like sheepfolds made of juniper wood, which are mostly surrounded by archaeological ruins and remains of walls, are very typical of Sardinia. After looking around a bit, we continue on our way. This becomes more and more beautiful with every step you take over the rubble limestone. After a few small scrambles, we reached the highest point of the hike and from now on - accompanied by lots of lively geckos - we hike downhill along a mountain ridge towards the rock arch. The last few meters up to the Arco Mariolu on the steep slopes are more demanding and a bit adventurous - I'm not quite sure whether you can really trust the rickety wooden railing of the steep stairs up there. But the view through the rock arch of the sea and the cliffs is worth every drop of sweat. What a great viewing point! But be careful when taking selfies etc.: Don't go too close to the rock arch because of the risk of falling! From here, “experts” - as they say in the Eurohike Wanderreisen route book - can hike further downhill to the beautiful bay of Cala Mariolu. However, the path should be treated with caution and is said to contain some improvised juniper wood ladders, wobbly wooden walkways and sloping passages, so I'm not sure whether I'm confident enough to do that today. The first few meters of the T3 section are absolutely fine and can be mastered without shaky legs, and yet we turn around a little later with a heavy heart. Somehow the additional, steep 500 meters downhill (which we of course have to go uphill again afterwards) seem too tricky for me today. I don't know if it's due to the rain forecast for the afternoon, my tired legs from the previous two days of hiking, laziness or simply fear of the adventurous route. In retrospect, I'm a little annoyed about my decision, as Cala Mariolu is considered one of the most beautiful beaches in all of Sardinia. But the path to the rock arch and back is also definitely worth it and is a really nice tour. Once again we enjoy great sea views, meet a few cute Sardinian pigs in the forest and stroll back to our rifugio in a relaxed manner. And here you can find my detailed blog article about the Sardinia hiking trip. Have fun while reading: https://www.couchfug.de/sardinien-wandern/