Authentic Haarlem – Cycleseeing in and around Amsterdam

Amsterdam is known for its enchanting city centre, crooked canal houses and winding waterways. But a few kilometres to the west, the scene changes from urban to pastoral as you head towards Haarlem. As well as ornate 17th-century architecture, you'll find bustling restaurants and a thriving art scene. Hop on your bike and experience all the beauty of Amsterdam's sister city for yourself.

In the first four kilometres (2.5 mi), you cycle from the Haarlemmersluis to Sloterdijk. The 17th-century Haarlemmersluis bridge was once a fish market, thanks to its proximity to the IJ river. Haarlemmersluis connects to Haarlemmerstraat and Nieuwendijk, both popular shopping streets.

On the Haarlemmerstraat, you will also find the West-Indies House: the former headquarters of the Dutch West India Company. They built some of the first forts on the island of Manhattan in 1625.

You cycle through leafy Westerpark, the site of a former gasworks, in operation between 1883 and 1967. The buildings have been largely repopulated with cool cafés, art galleries and restaurants. After the park you reach Sloterdijk. Stop here to admire the Petruskerk. This church was built in 1663 to serve the municipality of Sloten, which was annexed by Amsterdam in 1921 as the city grew. A church had already been built around 1479, but was destroyed in 1573 by the Geuzen after the siege of Haarlem.

Cycle past the extensive Volkstuin Complex, an area known for its cute and quaint country houses. Continue on the cycle paths along the wooded Spieringhorn. You might even spot a rose parakeet; these tropical birds formed a colony here years ago after escaping from the zoo.

About halfway between Amsterdam and Haarlem is Halfweg; a lively stop for traders with its cosy inns. The best coffee and cake can be found at the cosy Koffie van Kaatje. You are now cycling through a peat meadow area, a typical Dutch landscape. Centuries ago, this was all peat land.

The route takes you along the banks of the river Liede to the Fort Penningsveer in Haarlemmerliede. The fort is part of the UNESCO site 'Stelling van Amsterdam' and was built around 1886 as an internment camp during the Second World War. Afterwards, the fortress served for decades as an ammunition arsenal.

Take your time to explore Haarlem. Lock up your bicycle and visit the Teylers Museum, focused on art and science. The museum is full of fossils, drawings, paintings and minerals. Of course, a visit to the Grote Markt is also a must before admiring the Haarlem City Hall, one of the oldest in the country, dating back to 1370. You can always take a guided tour of the imposing Sint-Baafskerk church too, built in 1520.

The Burgemeester Reinaldapark is also a great place to park your bike and take a walk or just sit and watch people for a while. If you are hungry, get a pancake at the Pannenkoeken Paradijs.

After your visit to Haarlem, it is time to cycle back to Amsterdam. If you like, you can pass the Polderbaan of Schiphol on the way: the best place to spot aeroplanes. On the way back to Amsterdam, you will also pass some gastronomic delights: Het Rijk van de Keizer is an industrial hangout with a relaxed atmosphere; the Sloterplas lake is a perfect place to stop and enjoy the sun or take a walk in the woods; it is flanked by the popular Hotel Buiten, ideal for an afternoon break.

Once back in Amsterdam's New West, the leafy Rembrandt Park is an ideal place for a stop to relax those aching calves. Or stroll through the woods of Vondelpark and have a beer in the famous Blue Teahouse at Brouwerij het IJ or visit Vondelpark3 Restaurant.

Cycle through Amsterdam's Antiques Quarter, passing the famous Kramer Art & Antique shop on the corner of Prinsengracht with lots of famous Delft Blue porcelain to surprise a loved one back home. Stop at the Westerkerk and then go to the Anne Frank House, home of the wartime child whose diary moved the world.

The route ends on the picturesque Brouwersgracht. In this canal street you will find shuttered warehouses, houseboats and beautiful 17th-century houses. A fitting end to a fantastically beautiful bike ride.