The best city hikes and walks in L'Aquila

Historical tidbit: the pope who said 'no' The pontificate of Pope Celestine V lasted only five months. The simple hermit did not feel at all at home amidst the political intrigues and corruption of Rome. That is why he made a decision that was unprecedented at the time: he voluntarily resigned from his office to return to his humble life in the mountains. He thus became the first pope in history to abdicate of his own accord. After his death, his body was interred in the Basilica of Collemaggio. His impressive crystal mausoleum can still be admired there today. A special link with Pope Benedict XVI After the severe earthquake that struck L'Aquila in 2009, Pope Benedict XVI visited the heavily damaged basilica. At the tomb of Celestine V, he silently laid down his own pallium, the woolen shoulder band he had received at his papal inauguration. At that moment, it seemed like a subdued tribute to his predecessor. Only four years later did this gesture take on a deeper meaning. In 2013, Benedict XVI himself voluntarily resigned as pope, the first since the late Middle Ages. His symbolic tribute to Celestine V proved, in retrospect, to be a remarkable harbinger of his own historic decision. Thus, centuries after Celestine V's abdication, the Basilica of Collemaggio once again closed a special chapter in papal history.

The Basilica of Santa Maria di Collemaggio is undoubtedly the architectural and spiritual jewel of L'Aquila. Located at the end of an impressive green lawn just outside the city walls, this 13th-century church combines a unique Abruzzian Romanesque-Gothic style with a history that forever changed the Catholic Church. The history of the basilica is closely linked to Pietro da Morrone, a devout hermit who had retreated to the remote mountains of Abruzzo. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary appeared to him with the instruction to build a church on the hill of Collemaggio. Construction began in 1287. A few years later, in 1294, the Church found itself in a deep crisis. After the death of the pope, the cardinals had failed to elect a successor for more than two years. Finally, they appointed the simple hermit Pietro as a compromise. To everyone's surprise, he accepted the choice and was crowned Pope Celestine V in this basilica – and not in Rome. Shortly after his coronation, Celestine V issued the "Bulla del Perdono", a papal bull that granted believers full forgiveness of their sins if, with sincere repentance, they passed through the Holy Door (Porta Santa) of the basilica on August 28 or 29. This created the very first Holy Year or Jubilee in the history of the Catholic Church, six years before Rome introduced its own official jubilee. This special tradition, known as "La Perdonanza Celestiniana", is still celebrated every year and has been recognized as intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO.

In L'Aquila, a rich medieval past effortlessly merges with admirable modern resilience. The proud capital of Abruzzo rises in full glory and is best discovered on foot. Wandering through the atmospheric streets, you'll encounter one architectural treasure after another. For example, start at the iconic Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, where 99 mystical stone masks continuously spout water. Climbing further up, you'll reach the massive 16th-century Forte Spagnolo. From this impressive fortress, you can enjoy a sweeping view of the rugged, often snow-capped peaks of the Gran Sasso massif. The city's rich history is also palpable in the many beautifully restored palazzi and churches. For instance, the Basilica di San Bernardino overwhelms every visitor with a breathtaking baroque ceiling adorned with gold leaf. After all the cultural immersion, lively squares like Piazza del Duomo invite you for a well-deserved break. It's the perfect place to enjoy the local cuisine and a good glass of Abruzzese wine at an outdoor cafe. As a grand finale, the Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio should not be missed. This striking, pink-and-white checkered church houses a true world first: the very first Holy Door in the world. Thanks to the central, free parking facilities just outside the city walls, this compact art city is the ideal destination for a carefree and inspiring cultural walking holiday.

Palazzo Ardinghelli – where baroque and modern art meet Palazzo Ardinghelli is one of L'Aquila's most beautiful baroque palaces and tells the impressive story of the city itself. It was built after the devastating earthquake of 1703 and grew into an architectural masterpiece, with its monumental baroque staircase and the magnificent frescoes by Vincenzo Damini as the focal point. After the severe earthquake of 2009, the palace seemed lost, but thanks to a restoration funded by the Russian government, it was given new life. Since 2021, it has housed MAXXI L'Aquila, a branch of the national museum of contemporary art. Inside, contemporary art installations create a surprising contrast with the richly decorated 18th-century halls. The visit to this palace is absolutely worthwhile for the splendid staircase, the restored frescoes, and the special combination of historical architecture and modern art alone.

The Fontana del Nettuno (Neptune Fountain) on the atmospheric Piazza Regina Margherita is one of the most elegant, monumental fountains in the historic center of L'Aquila. Although the monument has a clear classical appearance, the fountain dates from the end of the 19th century. The fountain was completed in January 1881. Its construction was part of an extensive urban modernization project at the end of the 19th century. After Italy became unified, the city council of L'Aquila wanted to give the axis around Corso Vittorio Emanuele II a stately and European appearance. A new square was created, dedicated to the popular Italian queen Margherita of Savoy (Regina Margherita). As a monumental centerpiece and eye-catcher of this new square, the Neptune Fountain was built against the facade of an existing palace. The historical and technical fact: "Fake" bronzeThe most fun and surprising fact about this fountain lies in the material of the statue itself. Anyone standing in front of the fountain sees an imposing, dark green God of the Sea rising from a large mussel shell, leaning firmly on his trident.Although the statue looks like a heavy, precious antique bronze artwork at first glance, it is actually made of painted terracotta (baked clay). Because the city at the time preferred a quick and budget-friendly beautification of the square, a skilled imitation technique was chosen. The clay was painted with special green pigments to mimic patinated bronze. Only the internal supporting structure of the trident is made of iron.

Place where young and old can experience adventures together.

The historical seat of the Camera di Commercio (Chamber of Commerce) in L'Aquila is inextricably linked to the imposing Palazzo del Convitto. This monumental 19th-century palace dominates the Quattro Cantoni intersection and is located directly on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, under the shopping arcades (I Portici) we just discussed. The monastery of San Francesco: Before the construction of the current palace, the gigantic, medieval monastery complex and church of San Francesco a Palazzo stood on this exact site. For centuries, this was one of the city's most important religious centers. Secularization: In the 19th century, during the Napoleonic era and the later unification of Italy, the monastery was expropriated by the government. The church and monastery were eventually largely demolished to make way for a modern, secular, and administrative center. Construction of the Palazzo del Convitto (19th century) A new palace: The Palazzo del Convitto was built in the second half of the 19th century on behalf of the province of L'Aquila. It was intended to radiate the city's new, monumental urban grandeur. Architecture: The building is designed in a stately neoclassical style. The western wing of the previously discussed Portici (shopping arcades) forms the monumental ground floor of this complex.

The iconic shopping arcades along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II in L'Aquila are locally known as I Portici. These monumental arcades form the beating heart of the city's social and commercial life. Historically, the Portici were much more than just a row of shop fronts. It was and is the meeting place for the traditional struscio (the Sunday stroll). Historic fashion shops, bookshops, and chic cafés opened their doors under the arches, where professors, students, and nobles gathered. The arcades offered citizens protection from the harsh winter cold and the snow from the surrounding Apennines. During the 2009 earthquake, large parts of the adjacent palaces behind the shopping arcades collapsed, including the heavily affected Palazzo del Convitto. The Portici themselves remained largely intact thanks to their sturdy arch constructions, but had to be scaffolded for years for an extremely complex, structural restoration. Now, the historic shopping arcades on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II have been fully restored. The characteristic shops, boutiques, and bars have reopened their doors under the arches, fully regaining their status as L'Aquila's main "living room".